Climbing the Beast - 富士山

I cannot think of a better beginning to a weekend. I originally planned to go to Fuji San with a group of students, but the kid organizing it ended up selecting plans that weren't exactly in synch with what I wanted to do. The result: Thursday night I decided I would go to Fuji San the following night, alone. Best idea I have had so far in my short life.


Thanks to Ryuhei, an office assistant at KCP, I was able to print my bus reservation and get some good advice on finding the bus depot. After class, I changed rapidly and made haste to the bus. Antithetical to 'Taylor Time,' I was actually quite early and arrived at Kawaguchi 5th by the Keio bus around 8. From advice given by previous Fuji-climbing classmates, I planned to leave around 10 or 11 and expected a four hour hike. When I got to Kawaguchi 5th, I sat at a table of a restaurant by myself like the creeper I normally am and was prepared to wait a few hours. When I went to get a drink, I asked two Japanese girls who were getting water at the same time when the planned to start. After overcoming my terrible Japanese, I was surprised to find out that they planned to leave immediately following their meal since the holiday season makes Fuji San incredibly crowded. Taking pity on me, in typical overwhelming kind Japanese fashion, they invited me to join them. After struggling to make sure it was okay, I accepted their invitation, quickly changed, and began the hike with them.

The group included Japanese men and four women with ages ranging from 23 to 27 (perhaps?). Two are firefighters, one works as a law assistant, one works in Takanobaba doing something I am unclear about, one works at an old person home, another works at an aquarium, and the last two I have no idea; all are from Saitama. 
Often times, I was toward the front of the group, excited to get to the peak. We stopped quite frequently, more than I would have if I were to go alone. Considering we left at nine in the evening and I had amazing company, I was happy to stay go their pace, though; in fact, I felt bad that they frequently had to ask me to wait a second in my determination to reach the peak by sunrise.

As we climbed, it got cooler, but hiking made me quite hot, and until large crowds forced the group to walk slowly and at times stop, I didn't put my roommate's stereotypically Asian pink puffy coat on. (My roommate is French by the way.) As I climbed, my companions were great company and I learned a million new words and phrases. I also practiced English pronunciation with them; some of the words they pronounce are hilarious. 

As we neared the peak, the lines became so crowded that we were barely walking. Around three hundred meters from the top, I suddenly felt really sick. Thank goodness they had previously taught me the word for oxygen (さんそー酸素ーsanso) earlier, because in my struggling state I managed to ask Kana for some, which they brought in the form of pill supplements and inhalers. I used the miniature oxygen tank and tried to persevere. I had never felt so suddenly ill with the same symptoms before; every few meters, I had to stop to use the inhaler. Reaching the peak at the point honestly seemed impossible. I even pondered whether I should just lay down where I was and watch the sunrise at that point. If Kana weren't there to keep telling me もうちょっと and 頑張り, just a little bit further, persevere, I probably would have done so alone. I continued to straggle like a wobbly tooth on a first grader for about two hundred meters and prayed to God to help me make it. God must have been watching over me, because I was spontaneously rejuvenate; I was able to excitedly climb the last bit.

We reached the summit at truly the perfect time. As we got closer to the peak, the group had split up, and we met two of the other girls at the top. We didn't have to wait in the cold, but more importantly, didn't miss the beautiful view. The four of us watched the sunrise 3,776 meters from sea level. 'Banzai' could be heard chanted by many Nihonjin in the distance.
Perhaps I'm used to the dreadful Hell's Gate weather of South Bend, because although it was cold, I was not even close to being  miserable as I usually was during most outdoor Notre Dame activities. After many photos of the crater, view of the sunrise, and group poses, we went to the noodle shop at the peak, where I had my first ramen in Japan. It was the perfect way to warm up, as well as enjoy delicious shoyu noodles.

We began the descent and everyone seemed to be revived, perhaps because we now had the company of the warm sun as opposed to the pitch black atmosphere the seven hours before, or perhaps it was because climbing uphill is four times as hard as going down. The descent was when I really got to speak to them and get to know them better.

As if their kindness was not enough, they offered to drop me off rather than take the bus. I got my first experience in a Japanese car and enjoyed the stunning views from Kawaguchi lake as half of the group went to lunch. The restaurant's speciality was もうとうーMoutou, a thick white noodle soup that I had never heard of until then. The two boys each selected a もうとう with various toppings; the two girls and I split one もうとう and a soba/tempura set. Upon leaving the restaurant, Kana would not let me pay my share.

After, we went to an onsen to meet the others. The group had split up because one of the girls had gotten sick from the climb, and onsens are their way to relax. I feel bad because I originally said I did not want to go (onsens require everyone to be completely naked). Because of my hesitation, I believe that I was at fault for splitting up the group. Despite my fear, I figured that I would probably never get the chance again, and when we got there, decided to go.

It was an experience. Everyone showers together to keep the water clean, then proceeds to the inside onsen or outside rotenburo. A tiny towel is used to cover one's body only one walking to and from each bath. At first, I was horrified as everything is exposed, but once I realized that no one cares or is looking at you, I was relieved of my embarrassment was able to soothe my sore body. Had I gone with Americans, I know that I would not have enjoyed the experience.


After some intense relaxation, we had dessert in the same building. The two girls had kakigoori-かきごおり-かき氷、shaved ice with flavored syrup, while I ate shingenmochi with kuromitsu-黒みつーくるみつ, a black sweet shoyu tasting, chocolate looking syrup, and kinakoーきな粉ーきなこ, a soybean powder. I enjoyed a delicious dessert with amazing company yet again. I was also prevented from paying for the onsen or ice cream...


When we departed, everyone got in a circle, and from what I could follow, commented on how much they enjoyed the day and thanked everyone. I still cannot get over how nice everyone is and the genuineness of their customs.

On the way home, we stopped at MOS Burger, a burger chain. I never like fast food, but MOS Burger is a famous chain and they had an ebi burger on the menu that suits my pescetarianism, so I figured, while in Japan, I need to try it. My taste buds were happily surprised. For dessert, I ate a Fuji San melon pan that one of the girls had given me. It was essentially a melon pan shaped like the beast. It was delicious.

I am overwhelmed. Climbing Mount Fuji was an amazing feet that only few can say that they have done. I met amazing people who smothered me with kindness. I experienced an onsen, which my self-consciousness never would have allowed me to do without the girls. Countless new Japanese words, phrases, and aspects of culture were thrust in front of me. I had this incredible day all because  I randomly decided to climb Mount Fuji alone. Speechless is the best description of me right now.


I have traveled to many countries and lived in only three, but I have never experienced a culture that is so generous, conscientious, and courteous. This far, I cannot imagine a better place to live. People are not raised selfishly with an individual mindset like in America. I love that Americans love individualism, but the Japanese culture has something special that you truly cannot understand until you experience it. Everyone knows about the 'group think' or stereotypes of Japanese culture, and that is all they are - stereotypes, crude generalizations of a culture as described by people who cannot appreciate the customs. I truly hope that I can one day become proficient in Japanese and familiar with the culture in order to live and work here.  Thus far, Japan has few unforgivable flaws: natto, smoking permitted in typically bizarre places for America, and expensive fruit. If Japan manages to rid itself of these tragedies, my departure from America will be imminent.